1. Raise the car off the ground and place jack stands on the rear frame rails so the weight won’t be on the rear housing.
2. Pull the nuts off the rear spring u-bolts and install the rear traction bar mounting brackets with the “open” end of tabs on the mounting plate facing forward and the side edges flush with the stock shock/u-bolt plates. There is a right and left-hand rear traction bar bracket. Center the brackets and tighten them back up just snug.
3. If you have a traction bar kit for stock leaf spring location there are left and right hand brackets that fit the forward left spring perches only one-way with the tabs “open” towards the rear of car to accept a bushing end.
4. Mock-up the traction bar by first installing the rear spring bracket with a 5/8” bolt and then installing the forward bracket. Adjust the length to properly locate the forward weld-in mounting bracket by rotating the tie rod end in or out with the jam nut backed off.
5. Prep the area where the forward brackets are to be welded. Remove the paint and grease. Protect the floorboard with a piece of scrap metal between the frame and body during welding.
6. Tack-weld the forward brackets with the traction bars in place for alignment. Remove and complete welding.
7. Put the car back on the ground with all the static weight for the final adjustment of the bars. Use a small bolt, tie wrap/zip tie, or piece of wire to hold the back off the ground temporarily. The 5/8”bolts should go through the brackets easily when the right length is established.
8. NOTE: You can “preload” the passenger side rear for traction purposes if the car goes to the right on a hard launch to equalize the traction. Do this in small amounts by lengthening the bar ¼-1/2 turn rotation at a time.
9. When you have it the way you want it, lock down the jam nuts and have fun!