Mini Tubs

 

Remove all carpet, padding, rear seat, etc. in area of rear fender wells.

 

Disconnect battery ground cable.

 

Using a sawsall or similar tool, cut out the sheet metal between the package tray and the floorboard on both sides next to inner fenders. Use the bottom edge of the package tray as a guide while cutting out completely flush to side panel above fender panel. Flush to side panel above fender panel.

 

Cut material between hinge wells and inner fenders. Finish flush with bottom of hinge wells.

 

Layout removal of stock inner fenders as follows:

 

A. Measure at top of inner fender well from side panel inboard 1 1⁄4” to 1 1⁄2” and mark. This flange that you will cut to size is where the new tub fits up to from underneath and overlaps.

 

B. Layout a cut line forward that intersects the floorboard at 90 degrees and about 4 1⁄2” inboard from vertical body inside panel. We use 1" masking tape as a guide.

 

C. Layout cut line towards trunk area starting at center/top reference point of 1 1⁄4” to 1 1⁄2” and taper gradually inboard to where it meets trunk floor surface about 23" from lower trunk seal flange and 4" inboard to start with. I highly recommend pulling trunk lid off, it makes the job that much easier. You’ll final fit the tub later, you just want to rough out the shape for now. You’ll have to be very careful not to cut too much away, especially in the trunk area at first.

 

D. We use a combination of a sawsall, 4" Makita cutting blade, air chisel, and plasma cutter to do the cutting. Take your time!

 

E. To establish the front floorboard cut, use a flexible straight edge spanning the front leading edges of original inner fender at floor and draw cut lines inboard towards and flush with frame rail.

 

F. Read all instructions before you decide to guess.

 

 

 

 

Welding Tubs:

 

After you’re happy with the fit, you’ll need:

 

A number of clamps and small pieces of scrap metal

An old hammer handle to apply pressure from inside the tub during the welding process to keep fit tight

A patient friend to man the hammer handle or similar device while you’re in the trunk welding

A TIG or MIG welder is recommended

 

Use straight­edges, squares, angle finders, and any straight or parallel surfaces to reference tub surfaces off of.

 

We use the clamps and scrap metal pieces to position the tub side panel surface above the frame rail and help hold up against the floorboard.

 

Look at the sketches and photos once more before starting your tacking. Begin at the top and work your way towards the front of the car in 3/4" increments.

 

Do the same towards the rear of the car.

 

Be sure your friend underneath is holding the tub as high as possible to ensure a tight fit and better weld.

 

Weld along the floor line the same way, starting in the middle.

 

NOTE: If using a wood or other flammable devise for step 6, be sure to keep it as close as possible but be very cautious of starting fires.

 

You can now tie the hinge wells for the trunk into the tub at the inside edge with a strip of 1/8" steel.

 

Prep all welded joints and use a good quality chalking sealer to finish off. A chalking gun works great if you have access to one.

 

NOTE: It’s not necessary to weld up 100% and could cause warping.

Rough

Rough

Very rough first fit

Rough

Rough

Area to remove

Area to remove

Saving the upper area for welding.

Rough

Rough

Rough Fit

Doing Corners

Doing Corners

This is one of the most critical areas to get fit properly.

First Fit

First Fit

Second Fit

Second Fit

Saving Corners

Saving Corners

Near final fit. Almost time to remove those corners.

IMG_0229.JPG

IMG_0229.JPG

Corners removed

Corners removed

Near final fit.

Final Fit

Final Fit

Final fit and trim. Remove the paint for the welding next.

Holding Tub

Holding Tub

This is helpful if you don't have a friend to sit under the car for you.

Penitration

Penitration

This is normal for TIG welding. Slightly less so with MIG welding. Tub is finished at this point.

Fill

Fill

Filler Panel we add

Finished fit

Finished fit

Additional

Additional

Add a piece of steel here to reinforce the hinge.

Seat Springs

 

Note:  With hard top body styles, only the upright seat frame (back rest) needs to be modified.

Note: On a post model body style, both frames need to be modified.

 

Back Rest

 

Strip the upholstery off the seat frames completely

 

Use 1/4" round rod and if available a brake line bending tool to form your bends

 

Fabricate two new rods to match the horizontal factory rods on the backside of the frame.

 

Locate and clamp rods approximately 39" apart.  Tubs should be installed 41" apart, the two inches is for clearance.

 

Weld the 1/4" rods wherever contact points are with the seat frame

 

Cut away springs as needed to clear the tubs

 

Do NOT cut the front face of the seat frames at all.  They fit over the face of the tubs and appear stock

 

Bottom Frame

 

Strip the upholstery off the seat frames completely

 

Bend 2 rods 90* to fit around front inboard corners of the tubs

 

Locate the two rods with their inboard legs approximately 39" apart

 

Tack weld the rods in place and trim away the excess seat spring

 

Fit check in the car for clearance

 

Remove both frames and finish welding in all contact areas

Back Rest

Back Rest

Back Rest

Back Rest

Matching Angles

Matching Angles

Seat

Seat

Seat

Seat

Measurement

Measurement