Clutch Pedal Shaft Upgrade
1. Remove the clutch pedal from the car and remove all the brackets
2. Grind off the welded end of the shaft flush with the pedal and knock it out with a punch
3. Put the new shaft in the slotted hole in the pedal and weld it in place, checking for squareness with your pedal
4. Reinstall with the new plastic bushings supplied.
5. Install the splined arm with the splines outboard of the splined shaft. You may need to trim up to 1⁄4” off the inside of splined collar for alignment of the clutch rod
Clutch Linkage Kit
1. The frame bracket must be welded in the stock position on the frame rail for correct geometry with the pedal linkage, even if the engine is moved 3⁄4” forward.
2. Mock-up the cross shaft with the bell housing pivot bar bracket. You may have to re-drill the holes/slot to position the cross shaft as square as possible in the chassis. You will have to relocate/re-drill the holes if you are using 3⁄4” forward engine mounts.
3. Depending on the ammount of clearance between the pivot brackets and the cross shaft, the pivot bar bracket on the bell housing may need to be shimmed or an offset bend in it to achieve the correct clearances. The (2) felt washers provided should be installed also during this process.
4. The upper clutch rod from the pedal should be set at 15 3/8” between the heim join center lines to start.
5. With the clutch pedal in the relaxed, upward position against the rubber stop, slide the splined pivot arm on the clutch pedal splined shaft so the clutch pedal rubber pad is approximately the same height as the brake pedal.
6. Mock-up the upper clutch rod with (2) 3/8” bolts and nylock nuts so the bolt clears the exhaust during its travel and the bottom and doesn’t interfere with the brake pedal and other components under the dash
7. With the pedal, upper rod and clutch cross shaft adjusted in the correct position, install the lower clutch linkage from the cross shaft to the clutch fork. There should be about 1⁄4” play with pushing the pedal to prevent drag on the throw out bearing. The clevis pin drops in from the top into the clutch fork – cotter pin when the adjustment is finished. You may need to shorten the linkage rod if possible or necessary to clear the exhaust system.
8. Final assembly: Lube the cross shaft pivot ball and felt washers with bearing grease. The cross shaft should pivot freely on the pivot balls without dragging on the pivot brackets.
9. Tighten all the hardware and check clearances again before road testing.